Summer
Mackerel (season June onwards)
Gruner Veltliner Rosensteig, Weingut Geyerhof, Kremstal 2008 (certified organic)
A lately fashionable fish due to sustainability. Classic oily fish in character needing a wine with cleansing high acidity like Vinho Verde, a classic Portuguese match. However we can be more eclectic that and here it is matched with the fashionable white grape of the moment GV. The white pepper varietal character works really well with the strong flavours of the fish (peppered mackerel) and there is enough minerality and acidity to keep the match in balance. This wine is drinking so well right now also.
Monkfish (season end of July onwards)
Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Terroir Gneiss, Domaine de l’Ecu 2008 (certified biodynamic)
Pioneer of French Biodynamics and a full on expression of Muscadet due to the rocky soil. This wine is fuller bodied and riper than most Muscadets which matches up to the meaty character of the Monkfish whilst the Muscadet heritage adds great minerality and austerity to the pairing.
Venison (season middle/late June onwards)
Corbieres Terrasses Clos de l'Anhel 2006 (organic cultivation)
An insiders wine to the new wave of premium red wine producers in the deep south of France. Dark blackberry and plum fruit with lovely purity, silky and freshness. Full bodied, stylish and very polished, lots of fruit, ripe tannin and cleansing acidity. Simply dense and a sublime combination!
Summer Fruits (season June onwards)
Coteaux du Layon, Philippe Delesvaux 2009
Sweet wine and value are not something that go hand in hand, but this wine truly is with a prestigious name to match. Slightly less sweet than most allowing the match with may different fruit types from gooseberries through to strawberries and plums and offers huge versatility by the glass.
Spring
Asparagus (season April-May)
Mount Beautiful Sauvignon Blanc, Cheviot Hills 2008
New sub region of Canterbury with only Mount Beautiful as producer at present. It is a venture by one of the richest men in New Zealand so there has been a lot investment into the site, clones and varieties. As far as new Zealand sauvignon is concerned it is not as tropical, guava etc as most. It does have the exuberance of Marlborough on the nose, definitely more herbaceous than tropical, restrained and very textural on the palate.
Crab (season March-May)
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Vila Medora 2008
There is current rave about new world wines from Alsace varieties with seafood. However I have chosen something more unusual and interesting from Italy which has good mid weight from it’s warm but cool positioning in central Italy. Slightly floral and spicy such as a gewurztraminer but the aromatics are definitely more subdued such as a torrontes.
Scallops (season March-April)
Rully, Deux Montille, Burgundy 2006
White Burgundy and scallops-classic! especially as most chefs will combine the dish with a cauliflower puree and wild mushrooms, making this match pretty damn ideal. This Rully is not on our trade list presently but offers great value, fuller than most Rully whites but retains that lovely, delicate but mealy character with fresh acidity typical of the Chalonnaise wines.
Rabbit (season March-April)
Bierzo Joven, El Castro de Valtuille 2006
Midweight to light reds with a bit of a wild, rugged character are perfect with rabbit. This Bierzo from the mencia grapes fits the bill to a T. It does not have too much structure to it but is packed full of flavour and should play very well with the gamey character of the Rabbit. It has mellowed out a lot with age and has gained rather complex flavours rather than just fruit associated with younger red wines.
Spring Lamb (season April-May)
Santenay Vieilles Vignes, Vincent Morey 2005
Tender spring lamb and structured red Burgundy should be a very good combination. Typically soft and elegant plus a vintage known for it’s purity of flavour. I think Beaune wines here are more ideal over the wines from the Cote des Nuits as they are a little more sturdy and provide a touch of useful tannin to go with the lamb. A wine that will show quality but also interest.


