These days only Bordeaux does ‘vintages of the century' interspersed with ‘the miracle vintage' it would seem. In Burgundy either the marketing machine is less well-oiled, or they are more phlegmatic and the vignerons actually appreciate vintage variation as a fact of life that comes with the territory, contributing to the magic of the wines they produce. In 2008 though, the ‘miracle Bourguignon' does genuinely seem to have occurred: a potential mid-summer crisis was averted followed by a far later than usual harvest. The result is the emergence of a small but seriously good set of wines.
The early promise of the growing season was dashed by a truly unusual July and August of cool weather and lots of rainfall. Even early September was unhelpful to the growers who must have had their hands firmly clamped together in prayer. Happily, once the French deity returned from a later than usual holiday, the weather changed and from mid-September two positive developments were to define the miracle. Firstly a drying northerly wind stopped the incidence of rot in its tracks, thickening the skins and concentrating the berries. Secondly the remainder of the month turned warm and sunny. This continued into October where a very late harvest was completed, accompanied by sighs of relief. Though a handful of growers reported quantities close to normal, most were down; and in some cases by 30%.
Burgundy 2008 En Primeur Offer
The Wines
As the vintage conditions might indicate it was not the best year to go ‘By-the Book-Biodynamic' in 2008. The wily foxes in Burgundy who comprise our growers practice organic methods, eschew pesticides but rarely seek official accreditation for the Bio badge. By reserving the right to spray against rot that may have otherwise been overwhelming, they have rather cannily produced some of the most successful wines of the region. There is no clear victor in terms of red or white in 2008, hard work and assiduous vine-management being the key to success in both. The style in 2008 reds is less voluptuous and open than last year with more notable tannins and also higher acidities to be found in the wines. The fruit profile is certainly pure and whilst not spectacularly ‘big' nearly all the growers were happy with the extract and ripeness. In the best hands very pure fresh wines were produced with good concentration and potential longevity. "Like 1993 with more fruit and a little like 2001 but with more concentration" was a quote from one grower that was echoed elsewhere. The fresher acidity of the 1996 vintage might also be a good point for comparison.
The whites continued their recent good run although it is difficult to make neat comparisons with previous vintages. The 2008s were more accessible than last year and the weight of fruit seemed to depend more on grower than any specific village characteristics. Acidity was very good again but the wines were not razor-sharp like 2007 with a more balanced ripeness to them. Overall they are very well-defined, neat wines without the tropicality of 2006 and with no evidence of high alcohol. 2008 whites will be ready to drink before 2007s and should outlast the 2006s.
Recommendation
2008 in Burgundy is a vintage that some people may overlook - that would be a mistake. We feel that the wines are potentially better than in 2006 and 2007 and for those with a long memory who missed 1993 and 2001 due to a preoccupation with ‘vintages of the century' 2008 should serve as reminder not to make the same mistake again.
